FINANCIAL TIMES A PASSION FOR FASHION / by Francesca Grima

THE ERA & NOW

"Jewellery is getting its 1970s groove on as designs become infused with the decade's rebellious spirit."
 - Vivienne Becker

"Conceived by a new generation of designer-jewellers searching for an entirely fresh expression, the movement's leader was Andrew Grima, whose radical space-agey ideas attracted the international jet set to his Jermyn Street boutique.  He teamed bark-like textured gold with massive, craggy gem crystals or coloured stones that were unusual for the time, such as tourmalines cut into unexpeced ways. 

Grima's widow Jojo and daughter Francesca have carried on the business, developing his distinctive style through new jewels imbued with the essence of Grima's philosophy. 

Jojo explains that she couldn't resist revisiting the lei necklace (price on request) of textured, fragmented gold scattered with diamonds, even though it took "two years on the bench" to handcraft. Her update is wider in front and has larger diamonds.  And the hallmark huge rings, standing high on the finger, have evolved too.  Some, designed by Francesca, are more abstract and architectural, and others more in the Grima mould.  Of a new emerald ring (pictured), Jojo says, "I wanted something bold and reminiscent of Andrew, but new and different.  He never made a ring like thiss.  He hated claws, so the marquise diamonds surrounding the central emerald are held in deep, boat-like settings.  I think Andrew would have approved."  Meanwhile the brand's updated statement brooches - 1970s badges of status and style - work well on this season's tailored jackets.  A fan shape uses Grima's original textured gold wire, but in an entirely new design."