July 30, 2021

Textured Wire


From the early 1960s Andrew Grima began to experiment with textured gold wire, soldered together, layer upon layer, in waves to give depth and movement. Random gaps between the wires and scatterings of diamonds to catch the light would give the finished pieces a delicate, ethereal quality.

Many of these jewels were quite large, but the light, open designs and broken outlines dispelled any feeling of heaviness. Due to its adaptability, textured gold wire featured as the building-block for many of Grima’s more sculptural designs.

The textured gold wire jewels featured here are a combination of new and vintage pieces. They represent the quintessence of Grima jewellery and the very highest level of the goldsmith’s craft.

Several of the images illustrate the jewels in the process of being made highlighting the technique which involves laying out individual wires on plasticine, covering the area with plaster of Paris and then removing the plasticine before soldering them from the back. Diamonds are then set on top of the wires in platinum batons or else spaces are left in the design for platinum collets. Finally texture is applied by hand with a burr.


 Illustration of a Grima yellow gold textured wire, diamond, turquoise and lapis brooch. The brooch is part of the permanent Metalwork collection at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.



 Citrine Brooch-Pendant, 2018

This brooch-pendant echoes the classic Grima “Sunburst” designs originally conceived for HM Queen Elizabeth in the early 1970s when Andrew Grima was the royal jeweller tasked with designing brooches as presents for the wives of Heads of State such as Mme Pompidou, Margaret Trudeau and Betty Ford.
Made in yellow gold textured wire set with diamonds, the brooch features a large cabochon citrine. The image to the left shows the brooch before the gold wire has been textured and the stones have been set. Designed by Jojo Grima in 2018.


 Diamond Ring, 2018

Rows of shaped gold wire set in plasticine wrapped around a copper tube to produce the desired shape and size of the ring. It is unusual for Grima to design a jewel with a diamond as the centrepiece but this beautiful 4.76 carat cushion old cut diamond set in yellow gold textured wire and surrounded by baguette diamonds is a worthy subject for a ring. Designed by Jojo Grima in 2018.


 Tanzanite Brooch, 2018

This “Sunburst” brooch-pendant in yellow gold textured wire and diamonds is set with a spectacular and exceptionally fine 43 carat tanzanite. Designed by Jojo Grima in 2018. The image to the left demonstrates the technique of laying out differing lengths of gold wire on a plasticine base to create an undulating “Starburst” form with depth.


 ‘Fan’ Brooch, 1973

This elegant gold and diamond “fan” brooch featured in the retrospective held at the Goldsmiths’ Hall in 1991 to commemorate Andrew Grima’s 70th birthday.


 Moonstone Rings

Two beautiful moonstone rings from the early 1970s. On the left with horizontal layers of textured gold wire (1973) and on the right with diagonal layers (1972).


 Citrine Brooch, 1968

A spray of textured gold wire set with diamonds and five marquise cut Madeira citrines.


 Pendant Earrings, 2018

These elegant pendant earrings feature yellow gold textured wire and diamond ‘en tremblant’ earrings with detachable pendants.


 ‘Fan’ Earrings, 2016

Yellow gold textured wire earrings set with marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds.


 Abstract Earrings, 1972

Textured gold wire and diamonds arranged in an abstract design. These smaller earrings are the perfect size for everyday wear.


 ‘Lei’ Necklace, 2011

Conceived in Hawaii in 1965 as Andrew Grima watched waves catching the sun on Kahala beach, the Lei Necklace won a De Beers Diamonds International Award and The Duke of Edinburgh’s Prize for Elegant Design in 1966. This necklace was crafted by Bernard Lister (who made the original) in 2011 and is only the 4th iteration of the design. Larger and more opulent than previous versions and featuring 16.84 carats of brilliant cut diamonds, this iconic necklace is the ultimate expression of Grima craft and design.


 Gold and Diamond Brooch, 1971

This fine yellow gold textured wire and diamond brooch captures the essence of Andrew Grima’s abstract sculptural design handwriting.


 Rubellite Brooch-Pendant, 2011

This stunning brooch-pendant by Jojo Grima features a stylised ‘Supernova’ in yellow gold textured wire set with a large Mozambican rubellite weighing 34.20 carats and diamonds set in platinum.


Gold and Diamond Earrings, 2021

These gold and diamond (detachable) earrings are an innovative take on a classic Grima design offering the flexibility of everyday essentials or glamorous pendant earrings.

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